Introduction:
Climbing in snowy and icy conditions requires specialized skills and equipment. One crucial piece of gear is the ice axe, which serves multiple purposes, including self-belaying. In this article, we will discuss ice axe self-belay techniques and compare the holding power of snow and ice anchors.
I. Ice Axe Self-Belay Techniques
1. The Grigri Technique
The Grigri technique is a popular self-belay method that utilizes an ice axe as a mechanical advantage device. To perform this technique, follow these steps:
a. Place the ice axe in a secure snow or ice anchor.
b. Attach a locking carabiner to the axe’s adze.
c. Clip the carabiner to your harness’s belay loop.
d. Tie a Figure-8 knot in the rope, passing it through the locking carabiner.
e. Secure the rope with a knot at the end of the rope.
2. The Pick Technique
The Pick technique is another self-belay method that uses the pick of the ice axe. Here’s how to do it:
a. Place the ice axe in a secure snow or ice anchor.
b. Hold the pick of the axe with one hand and the adze with the other.
c. Pass the rope through the locking carabiner attached to the adze.
d. Tie a knot in the rope, securing it to the pick.
e. Ensure the rope is taut and the knot is secure.
3. The Axle Technique
The Axle technique is a variation of the Pick technique that involves using the ice axe’s shaft as an anchor point. To perform this technique:
a. Place the ice axe in a secure snow or ice anchor.
b. Attach a locking carabiner to the axe’s shaft.
c. Clip the carabiner to your harness’s belay loop.
d. Tie a knot in the rope, securing it to the locking carabiner.
e. Ensure the rope is taut and the knot is secure.
II. Snow vs. Ice Anchors – Holding Power
1. Snow Anchors
Snow anchors are generally less reliable than ice anchors due to the potential for snow to compress and slide. However, with proper placement and construction, snow anchors can provide adequate holding power. The following are common types of snow anchors:
a. The Chock Anchor: This anchor uses wooden or plastic chocks to secure the rope.
b. The Snow Anchor: This anchor uses a piton and a camming device to create a secure hold in the snow.
2. Ice Anchors
Ice anchors are more reliable than snow anchors due to the solid structure of ice. The following are common types of ice anchors:
a. The Screw Anchor: This anchor uses a screw to secure the rope in the ice.
b. The Picket Anchor: This anchor uses a picket placed in a crack or hole in the ice to secure the rope.
Conclusion:
Ice axe self-belay techniques are essential for safe climbing in snowy and icy conditions. Understanding the differences between snow and ice anchors and their holding power can help climbers make informed decisions when choosing the appropriate self-belay method. Always prioritize safety and practice these techniques with a partner or under the guidance of an experienced climber.
